BOW GRIP - HEAT BOX in Archery - Composite Bows Forum

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BOW GRIP - HEAT BOX

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blacktail

BOW GRIP - HEAT BOX

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Posts: 2228

Jan 8 10 8:38 PM

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do you need a heat box when using bow grip...or will bow grip set up right in 70 temp..thanks john

http://alloverhiscreation.blogspot.com/

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burnie000

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Posts: 99

Jan 8 10 10:12 PM

I have not made a glass bow in a while, or used a heat cure epoxy, but I would advise to use something other than bowgrip 100. I have had many failures with bowgrip, even after bakeing it at 170 degrees for 7 hours. If you are going to use a two part, heat cured epoxy, i would suggest smoothon 40 or aeroepoxy with cabisil. And if you are using an epoxy for wood to wood, go with Uric 85, that is if titebond is not an opption. Urac wont even need to be heat cured, but is no good for glass.

As for your question, yes bow grip needs to cure at a higher temp than the bow will ever be exposed to. It will resoften at temps above that which you cured it at.

blacktail

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Posts: 2228

Jan 8 10 11:01 PM

what i am looking at is...trying to glue yew and bamboo or bamboo and hickory...

http://alloverhiscreation.blogspot.com/

blacktail

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Posts: 2228

Jan 9 10 10:23 AM

o.k. i found out that a better glue for this is urac or the tb 3..i would like to know how the titlebond 3 works with bamboo for people..it would be easyer for me to get..thanks john

http://alloverhiscreation.blogspot.com/

dutchwarbow

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Posts: 878

Jan 9 10 10:56 AM

TB3 is really easy, but I've heard that URAC 185 is the way to go. I know a few guys who switched from Tb3 to URAC, and they all told me URAC is the better one. The glued-up blanks would keep more of their shape, or, in other words, have less recoil from the form. It should also be a better gap-filling glue, overall stronger, and bond better to slightly oiled surfaces.

If I had it available, I'd use URAC.

But the TB3 is all I have, and It's doing great!!

wouldn't even think about using Bowgrip. Heard way to many bad stories about it!

Nick

stiknstring

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Posts: 171

Jan 9 10 11:34 AM

I am glad you saw the light. If your joints are perfect TB3 will work well. If you have some small gapping you should go with Urac 185. Bowgrip 100 is junk glue if you ask me. There has been story after story of failure using this glue by some will known bowyers. I have boo backed ipe bows that were glued together with both and have NO complaints with either. I think which one you choose is gonna be based on your wood working skills.

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blacktail

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Posts: 2228

Jan 9 10 2:11 PM

o.k. guys this is some great info...and i am glad that you guys chimed in...well,i got tb3 and now to get some bamboo and see if i have a dryed out yew or oak...thanks john

http://alloverhiscreation.blogspot.com/

Bohica

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Posts: 700

Jan 9 10 9:10 PM

+1 with Urac. Best wood-boo glue in the world. No loss with glued in reflex/deflex. You can also can use shrink wrap on entire bow and then add clamps to shape.

Their is room for all of natures creatures on the planet........right next to the mash potatoes.

village bowyer

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Posts: 363

Jan 9 10 9:55 PM

I have often wondered about heat, and resoftening of epoxies. I was tillering an epoxy spliced billet osage bow. One side of the z splice started to come apart. I put it down to the high temperature of the day re softening the epoxy. I used the heat gun to take apart the splice. It was really hard and took alot of time and effort, to heat up the splice, then as much force as I could apply to get it to budge at all, despite the joint already being comprimised. This had to be repeated many, many times to work. Once I got the joint apart I tried to continue the removal of the residue with the heat gun but it wasn't very helpful. I hade to remove it manually with a steel dental pick, then soak it in acetone, re pick it clean, re soak it several times.

I reglued the splice with a better industrial epoxy, at room temp, and haven't had a problem with it since. I think my problem had more to do with using a domestic quality epoxy, in the first place, rather than the temperature resoftening the glue.

If you want to do an all wood bow, in a heat box things can get tricky. Laminations are usually thicker than with glassed backed wood cored bows. This means you have to be more careful clamping the wood, or conditioning the laminations before milling them to their final size. Thicker wood if not perfectly quarter sawn can warp a hell of alot before the glue sets, after being in a hot box. The wood must be securely clamped, as there is often enough force to dislodge rubber bandage clamping at high temps.
Hamish

burnie000

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Posts: 99

Jan 10 10 2:57 PM

Titebond three is a great glue. Ive used both urach and titebond. I have gone to using just titebond on all wood to wood applications and have never had a failure. Titebond three is easy to use. Just flatten your matting surfaces, spread glue on both surfaces, and clamp together. No heat no nothing, just let it dry.

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