Hindsgavl Dagger Zoomable Image. Have Fun! in Flintknapping

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Hindsgavl Dagger Zoomable Image. Have Fun!

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NJKnapper	Hindsgavl Dagger Zoomable Image. Have Fun!	Lead	[-]
Posts: 113 Oct 13 09 2:54 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Tags : None Check this out!��You can zoom in really close. � Here are the links to the website it came from (Danish National Museum): http://oldtiden.natmus.dk/udstillingen/bondestenalderen/hindsgavldolken/language/uk/ http://oldtiden.natmus.dk/udstillingen/bondestenalderen/hindsgavldolken/flintteknologien_et_specialiseret_haandvaerk/language/uk/ There is a lot of information and photos to check out on that website.� Have fun! Doug
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weaselbear5		#1	[-]
Posts: 292 Oct 13 09 3:06 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	i wish i could do that!!!
philflintstone		#2	[-]
Posts: 703 Oct 13 09 4:09 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Love the picture and zoom feature and I like the pictures with the side and pommel views. Philip Last Edited By: philflintstone Oct 13 09 4:14 PM. Edited 1 times.
NJKnapper		#3	[-]
Posts: 113 Oct 13 09 5:36 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	weaselbear5- Me too. It's like a very distant goal. philflintstone- Isn't that cool? I just wish the image had a 3D rotate feature like some of the other artifacts on the website. Doug
BOHUNTER		#4	[-]
Posts: 1276 Oct 13 09 11:38 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	DONT LET TJ See this! just had to do it!
FlintknapperJimmy		#5	[-]
Posts: 221 Oct 14 09 8:43 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	The new CHIPS magazine has a full report about this dagger. Waldorf just spent a couple of months working on it.
Just a Flake		#6	[-]
Posts: 874 Oct 14 09 11:10 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	You need to get some some really good French/ Danish flint Philip and schmack one of these out! Awesome images. www.flintknappingtips.com
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philflintstone		#7	[-]
Posts: 703 Oct 15 09 12:21 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I made one out Perdenales a couple of years ago that was nearly identical in size and shape as the Hindsgavl but I stitched both faces of the handle. It wasn't until afterward that I found out it was only stitched on one side. The biggest problem with doing one that size, Marty, is the fact that its so wide. Something like 3 3/16 inches. The guy that made the original must have had hands the size of shovels and strong as a bull!! That piece of Perd was raw and nearly killed me pressure flaking it. I don't how tough the Danish flint is, if its anything like the English I've worked, one that wide would be a workout. I'd better eat my Wheaties before tackling one!!! Philip
philflintstone		#8	[-]
Posts: 703 Oct 15 09 12:33 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I just got to thinking, Marty, how fine a pattern can you do with indirect? Could a guy do a tight enough pattern so that it looked like it was pressure flaked? It wouldn't matter if the flake scars were a little wide just so they were nice and even. Something to try anyway, it would sure make it easier on my joints. Philip Last Edited By: philflintstone Oct 15 09 12:36 PM. Edited 1 times.
Just a Flake		#9	[-]
Posts: 874 Oct 15 09 5:48 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	philip, Ive never punched on ground surfaces. Actually I've only pressureflaked a preground obsidian preform once. I did some work once trying to punch sloans on tough material and really liked the pattern I got, which was in my antler holder, but the body of the piece was pretty heavy and I was removing quite a bit of edge thickness. I'd think on fairly light edges trying to punch sets on a dagger would be difficult, probably more so with copper. You're using a copper ishi stick for your pressure work, right? I would think that if you were going to try to punch them on the blade you might try a longer punch, but use it horozontally with a smallish tip and then do some heavy pressure towards the tip. this might be an advantage if you've got a piece of rock with a tough spot above the handle. otherwise I'd just eat an extra bowl of those wheaties. Another option is to go with heavy pressure with antler and just work off of a sharper edge. I haven't used a copper stick much, but I'm sure i could push off longer flakes with my antler ishi than I could anything else (might just be from experience) I've still got that fused quartz dagger I got from you at quartzsite and I love it. I'll post some pics of it when I can so you can look at it again. www.flintknappingtips.com
SHARPEDGE		#10	[-]
Posts: 480 Oct 16 09 6:24 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	maybe one day i,ll be able to make something like that until then i,ll just keep beatin on rock!!
philflintstone		#11	[-]
Posts: 703 Oct 17 09 9:42 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I'm going to experiment with it, Marty. I need to make a holder like yours first. I've got an antler ishi but I've had problems with breaking the tip on tough materials. What are you using for tips? I've been using whitetail since its the easiest for me to get. Philip
Just a Flake		#12	[-]
Posts: 874 Oct 17 09 1:31 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Philip, I prefer brow tines to the others, but sometimes all the tines are good. They will split though sometimes. I also half or quarter white tail billets on the skull and use the skull part for a flaker and these will not split. Small spike antlers work great too and you don't have to cut or shape them as much to fit into a handle. If they're on the skull you just have to shape the bone down. Make sure if you have the antler in a drilled handle you leave some outside beam on one side to give it strength so it doesn't snap off in the handle. For heavy work I leave the end fairly blunt until a slight point, not pencil pointy. You can burnish the tip by abrading and pressing the end on a hard stone to keep it in good shape. marty www.flintknappingtips.com
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Hindsgavl Dagger Zoomable Image. Have Fun!

Hindsgavl Dagger Zoomable Image. Have Fun!