Yurok Style Bow Attempt- Handle added in Archery

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Yurok Style Bow Attempt- Handle added

Author	Comment
Thimosabv		#21	[-]
Posts: 7985 Jun 10 11 2:25 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Looking great Brett.
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Boomer		#22	[-]
Posts: 1466 Jun 10 11 5:21 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Here are a few pictures of my progress. Sizing the back: Ready to sinew: Sinew applied: Now lets just hope it sticks. www.colgrovebows.com Last Edited By: Boomer Jun 10 11 5:26 PM. Edited 1 times.
Lee Slikkers		#23	[-]
Posts: 152 Jun 10 11 6:20 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Brett, this build is something else...I was in the progress of building a Hupa bow but after seeing this one I way shelve it and start from a new perspective. Very impressive!
mikekeswick		#24	[-]
Posts: 1292 Jun 10 11 11:14 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	One thing I learnt from Adam Karpowzi's book about sinewing is to apply the sinew and then wait till the glue gels. Once it's gelled and has intially 'stuck', pull the bow into more reflex, this then forces/presses the sinew layer into the wood. This technique is used when sinewing highly reflexed (concave) hornbow limbs, so if sinew is going to lift anywhere it will do it on these bows! This works 100% and since using it i've never had sinew lift from concave areas. It's looking good so far and it'll be great to see what sort of draw length you get it to.
Lee Slikkers		#25	[-]
Posts: 152 Jun 11 11 5:35 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Boomer, I went back and studied your pics a bit more and had a few questions/observations... The 1st thing I noticed is clean and organized your shop is! I love the idea of placing each coarse of sinew in its own container...must be a lot easier to keep things straight once the glue starts flying. The question I have is that the Osage appears to be a "rough saw" piece from the way the growth rings appear on the limbs and handles...it that correct or did you chase a ring on the back? Regards~
Boomer		#26	[-]
Posts: 1466 Jun 11 11 7:18 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I decrowned the piece until the back was flat. Then reduced the belly to a uniform thickness. Was difficult decrowning the stave because I kept thinking it was a belly and taking wood off where I shouldn't have. This is the first time sinewing such an extreme recurve. Hoping it sticks, if not I'll start over and try what Mike said. www.colgrovebows.com
Legionnaire		#27	[-]
Posts: 660 Jun 12 11 1:45 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	man cant wait to see this little one. Im sure it will keep most of reflex because its osage and its sinewed. Drying time is a killer of eager souls,lol. Check out my website! www.legionnairearchery.com
Eric		#28	[-]
Posts: 286 Jun 13 11 7:02 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Wow, 32 inches long is the shortest bow made for an adult I've heard of. How is it coming along? Eric Garza www.aisthetica.com
Boomer		#29	[-]
Posts: 1466 Jun 13 11 7:20 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Sinew is drying nicely, nothing has pulled up off of the back. However, there are a few spots where it has shrank laterally and you can see wood in between some of the sinew. I plan on filling these spots with additional sinew later today, then letting the bow dry for a month before I try to start bending it. This is going to be an interesting tiller. Not sure how I'll even brace it yet. I guess I'll figure it out when bending time starts. www.colgrovebows.com
Boomer		#30	[-]
Posts: 1466 Jun 13 11 7:35 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Here are a couple of pics of it with the sinew drying. www.colgrovebows.com
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Eric		#31	[-]
Posts: 286 Jun 14 11 5:02 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Yeah, on those wide backs I've had the same trouble with spaces opening between sinew strands. Best way to solve this problem is to lay down layers a week or so apart, using each new layer to fill in the earlier one. This, of course, means that the bow will take much longer to dry. Another thing I tend to gravitate more towards these days is laying a ribbon of sinew down a bow's centerline rather than covering the entire back. This only works if the bow's back doesn't have extreme grain violations, though. If grain run-off needs to be covered, you pretty much need to cover the whole back with backing material. Eric Garza www.aisthetica.com
Boomer		#32	[-]
Posts: 1466 Sep 17 11 6:19 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I ended up adding sinew 2 more times to fill the gaps that opened up while it was drying. Next time I'll add 3 layers initially, like on the last bow, and won't have to worry about coming back to fill gaps. www.colgrovebows.com
Legionnaire		#33	[-]
Posts: 660 Sep 17 11 10:44 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Looking good there buddy. that osage core is going to be a bear to pull and string. good luck. I just started one yesterday with yew and its now strung backwards so I guess ill add sinew this week. Check out my website! www.legionnairearchery.com
Boomer		#34	[-]
Posts: 1466 Jan 1 12 3:43 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Here is another video of me working on the Yurok style bow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6WQwhbW62k www.colgrovebows.com
Dediu00ro		#35	[-]
Posts: 88 Jan 2 12 3:09 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Wow man that's a hard build, how much draw length do you think this bow will have when its done ? Great work man loved the first videos u made learned allot from you.
Eric		#36	[-]
Posts: 286 Jan 2 12 5:16 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	At 32 inches tip to tip I'd be hesitant to draw it more than 15 inches. But it is osage, so Brett might get a bit more. I can't even imagine how thin the wood will be at the widest part of the limbs, it's going to be amazingly thin. I think part of the reason why west coast tribes make wide limbs is because they were using wood that wasn't very dense (compared to osage), so with wide limbs they still had a decent amount of limb thickness. With osage, especially now that the bow's been sinew backed, you're going to end up with paper thin wood at the widest parts of those limbs to get it down to a reasonable draw weight. I'm really interested in seeing the final bow. Eric Garza www.aisthetica.com
Boomer		#37	[-]
Posts: 1466 Jan 2 12 7:12 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I knew the denser Osage was going to give me some issues before I even started. But, Osage was all I really had, so I went for it. I am guessing 15-16" draw length. www.colgrovebows.com
Iktomiwicasa		#38	[-]
Posts: 3998 Jan 2 12 8:08 AM Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	General rule of thumb is that a properly tillered sinew bow can be drawn about half its nock to nock length or even a bit more provided it is set up so the string doesn't pull off the nocks at full draw. I'd wager you are good to 16-17".
Eric		#39	[-]
Posts: 286 Jan 2 12 9:20 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	What draw weight are you shooting for Brett? The shortest bow I've made and shot with any regularity was a 39 inch osage that I hunted with this year. I tillered it to draw 50 pounds at 20 inches, and it stacked so fast that I found it uncomfortable so will revert to a longer bow for this coming season. I can't even imagine what the stack on a 32 inch bow will be like. Wow! Eric Garza www.aisthetica.com
PhillipKing		#40	[-]
Posts: 392 Jan 2 12 7:17 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Looks Really good Boomer
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Yurok Style Bow Attempt- Handle added