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Hello, I'd say that different people are going to have different opinions about this. Them drying too fast and splitting is the main concern, if you leave the bark on, they'll dry slower and more uniform, but then its a beast to get the bark off. Since you debarked them now it will be much easier but then the drying will be accelerated, which may split the shafts.
I don't have any experience with hazel as arrow shafts, but my first bow was made out of it and I found it a very forgiving wood- I love hazel for bows!
Like I said, everyone has a different approach, but I debark them green, bundle them all up really tight, and wrap them up in something mildly damp and let them slowly dry somewhere cool and dark.
Taking them out every now and again to hand straighten and rewrap to keep straightening uniform.
I do this with ocean spray and dogwood and they rarely split, but still dry fairly fast.
Also, hopefully you cut them a little long, because most of the splits occur on the couple of inches on the ends, which can be trimmed off.
Even with debarking, I still feel it is a good idea to seal the ends with paint, or I just use candle wax.
Even debarked, alot of moisture escapes through the ends- picture trimmed wood as a bundle of straws, all the open vessels are on the severed ends.

As far as straightening, in my experience, the more you unwrap, hand-straighten a bit, and rewrap again differently as they dry, the straighter they will turn out. Once every day or two for a little while. Just keep them covered and the drying process slow and you should be fine. Hope this helps.

One other trick I've never shared before, and have never heard anyone else do, is that when I straighten them green, sometimes I have them on my porch, which is a really smooth piece of concrete, I put one down on the ground, and lay this really heavy, rigid 2' x 3' plywood board on top of it, stand on it and roll the arrow back and forth underneath.
Kind of an odd approach I know, but the arrow cant bend any way but straight, and it also seems like it compresses the wood, much like burnishing it does. It really works quite well, just make sure the concrete and board are really smooth and free of debris.