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 StringDrivenThing |
HELP - Hafting stone points ??????? |
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Posts: 2 (11/30/08 9:20 AM) |
A friend wants me to make him some primitive arrows using stone points & Douglas fir shafts.
The shafts will probably be 5/16" or 23/64" diameter, "commercially-made". Can stone points even be hafted onto such a shaft? Thanks, I'm brand new to this and any pointers would be most helpful. |
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Grey Taylor |
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Posts: 588 (11/30/08 9:25 AM) |
A lot depends upon the thickness of the points you use and the diameter of the shafts you use.
Thick points and 5/16" shafts may be quite a challenge. Guy |
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allask |
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Posts: 377 (11/30/08 9:52 PM) |
it can be done with a little work but as guy said diameter and thickness will be factors,do you have the points yet?when cutting the groove for the heads
remember to go cross grain so the shaft wont split from the groove back.i have also seen pieces of wood added like making a string nock on a flight arrow with
the butt end of point sitting on the shaft end,a piece of wood on either side of the point and lashed with sinew to the shaft behind the point.then wood
tapered for better penetration where it is over point and more sinew in a criss cross around head
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StringDrivenThing |
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Posts: 3 (12/01/08 7:13 AM) |
Thanks, gents.
I do not have the points yet, my friend will send me some photos soon. I'll try to post them and go from there. |
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fiddler49 |
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Posts: 1540 (12/01/08 6:30 PM) |
String, Use a gap filling type glue like pitch, birch bark tar, asphaltum or medium weight super glue,
epoxy or epoxy putty. Also, In the winter, just water and saw dust paste will make a super strong mastic below 32 degrees. Vegetable fiber works as well as sinue for tieing on heads. Your avatar pic is the same as warrioryeti cheers fiddler49 |
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fiddler49 |
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Posts: 1541 (12/01/08 6:32 PM) |
String, Use a gap filling type glue like pitch, birch bark tar, asphaltum, hide glue or medium weight super glue,
epoxy or epoxy putty. Also, In the winter, just water and saw dust paste will make a super strong mastic below 32 degrees. Vegetable fiber works as well as sinue for tieing on heads. Your avatar pic is the same as warrioryeti cheers fiddler49 |
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StringDrivenThing |
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Posts: 4 (12/02/08 7:09 AM) |
Fiddler49 -
Thanks for the tips on hafting/gluing and about the avatar. I changed it so we do not have more than one Handsome Harry at a time 
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StringDrivenThing |
pictures, finally | ||
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Posts: 10 (01/05/09 9:46 AM) |
Here's the points he wants to use for hunting whitetail deer.
I don't have them in my hand, they look DULL from age. Can stone points "dull"? Can he hunt with these, or should they be used on ornamental arrows? ****Anyone know the name/type/style/classification of these heads? They're from somewhere around West Virginia Thanks 
Last Edited By: StringDrivenThing
01/05/09 8:12 PM.
Edited 2 times.
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Hillbilly NC |
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Posts: 2664 (01/06/09 3:01 PM) |
Yes, stone points dull like any others. I carry a small flaker to sharpen them when I'm out hunting. Those points would probably definitely need to be
sharpened before hunting with them, but I would be very reluctant to do any chipping on old artifacts, there are plenty of knappers who would make him a good
matched set of sharp points to hunt with. All those points are atlatl dart points and may be to thick to haft to an arrow shaft anyway-all those styles were
made before the bow and arrow was in common use in eastern North America. As for types, I would say left to right: Kirk corner-notched (Early Archaic, about
8,000 years old); Palmer corner-notched (Early Archaic, about 9,000 years old); Stanley Stemmed (Mid-Archaic, about 7,000 years old); another Palmer
corner-notched, and a Morrow Mountain type 1 stemmed point (Mid-Archaic, about 6,000 years old.)
Save the Cro-Magnons
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wolfsire |
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Posts: 886 (01/06/09 3:52 PM) |
Just me, but it seems a shame to put a knapped point on a commercial dowel when shoots are easy enough to come by. Takes less practice to spot them than does
knapping. Even non-green tomato stake purchased bamboo would look, feel and be more authentic.
But to help in the thread, for any knapped point that is almost as thick as the shaft, consider mounting it into a wider foreshaft that can be tapered at the back to match the shaft.
Steve
Last Edited By: wolfsire
01/06/09 3:55 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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