I would kind of like to retain the amber color.
Do you think that is possible?
What if I added beeswax to the sap?
How would I go about using it?
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Quest for fire |
What is the best way to use pine sap as a sealer for a bow? |
Lead | |
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I was thinking of using pine sap as a sealer for a bow.
I would kind of like to retain the amber color. Do you think that is possible? What if I added beeswax to the sap? How would I go about using it? |
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rwelch |
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You could try thinning it with acetone ..
Ralph |
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wolfsire |
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IIRC I read somewhere about thinning it with turpentine.
Steve
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michbowguy |
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i like turpintine as it is made from the conifer as well.
just a little bit smellier. when you process pitch you are letting out all the turpine from the distilling process that you arent realy taking full advantage of by letting the "heavy" resin-ish smoke blow away in the wind....thats why it goes up in flames soo much when you render sap. when you smudge a skin to waterproof it and seal it you are trying to trap in all the resins in the hide. bg |
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Marc St Louis |
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I don't think you want to. It stays tacky for a very long time
Marc
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jkekoni |
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How about drying it in sauna?
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Hartung |
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Use cleaned pine sap and, if it is hard, add one or two drops of vegetable oil or grease to make it softer. Put it on a leather pad and vigorously rub a very thin layer of it onto the woods surface. Then use a heat gun and let melt the sap on the surface of the wood while continuing to rub vigorously the melted sap with your leather pad. Use a new pad if the old one gets to stiff. When the entire bow has thus been treated, take a handful of fine saw dust into the palm of your hand and vigorously rub the limbs of your bow with the sawdust. Let stay for one night, repeat the saw dust treatment the next day if the limbs are still sticky. If you do it correctly the stickiness will disappear after three treatments with sawdust. Good luck with it. |
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Quest for fire |
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Thanks one and all.
Hartung that sounds like a plan. Heck,I was going to go in the Flora forum and ask for a use for all the Hawthorn sawdust I have accumulated. You know I was also going to heat one limb to take a twist out of it. Perhaps I can ''Kill Two Birds With one Arrow'' and do the two things, at the same time.
Last Edited By: Quest for fire
09/27/08 12:22 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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Hartung |
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Hartung wrote: I forgot to mention that you have to heat the sap of course before adding the oil/fat. Do not add to much oil. The mixture once cooled down should be of a gum like texture. As for the saw dust. Do add very fine saw dust, no chips or it won't work. When thinking of it…you might also try rubbing in dried punk wood (the one used for smoking buckskin) if you don't have saw dust. Your bow will look very paleo J. |
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Marc St Louis |
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If the bow is a selfbow you can cook the sap right on the bow and that will cure the tackiness. You have to heat the bow till the sap smokes, it will darken
some though.
Marc
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Quest for fire |
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it will darken some though.
Quote Marc Thats O:K:,it will hide the mistakes:) I will proabably be doing a combination of what you and Hartung have mentioned. |
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