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You are right, Steve. I believed what you told me the other night... I will probably have to shorten it to get any weight at all... I just was wanting to look at the drawings Jaro posted, and also figure out where to start the taper.

Oh, and in an article Thimo posted a link to the other day, they said they were getting smoother and better performance out of longer bows (like 80", I think)...

Right now, I have drawn a center line down the crown, and lines on each side 3/4" from the center, giving me my 1/ 1/2" maximum width (That is pretty much all there is to work with). I figure I can assess things from there before going to the 1 1/4" you recommended.

I am trying to figure out things about warbow cross section, too. It seems like the cross section I have seen is oval or round... with crown on back and belly. I remember Jaro saying a flat back was ok... I am wondering why a flat belly wouldn't be ok, too.

I guess I have plenty to learn... I hope I can do it quick, before I mess up this primo stave...

"Many counselors bring success"...

No rush, Thimo. I could probably use more time for research and thinking...

Thanks, guys!

Ken

Thanks guys!

Wow, Tom, I think I am more excited about the search method than the warbow dimensions, now...! "Feed a man to fish/ Teach a man to fish... etc etc." Thank Hartung, too, please...

Thimo, thanks for sending that diagram. I had actually found that one, though... I am looking for the drawings Jaro made and posted at least twice (once on one of your threads). It had cross sections and dimensions of some MR bows...

Jaro, I found a written description that you had posted to someone, and then remembered I had copied it into a Word document on my hard drive so I could use it later without having to look for it. Irony... Yay. I had to convert the centimeters to inches... You know, only scientists use the metric system here... Ha ha.

Here it is:

"Matt, when making a let say typicall run of the mill Marry Rose warbow then -

The handle is offset 3 cm up and 7 cm down from the median line (middle of the bow).

The width will be say 35 mm. Now 10 cm up and down from handle the width will be the same.
Then the tapper goes to the tips, but as if the tips were about 22 mm wide.
15 cm to the tips, the taper goes abruptly to the 12,7 mm (1/2).

This last taper is clearly visible.

Thickness tapper in comparition is rather straight, without any raised handle.

Jaro"

I can't seem to paste much more than half a sentence or so into the PP quotes, bold, or underline right now... At least my computer is back to working, though... (wasn't this morning).

Jaro, I didn't see a length in there...?

Actually, 100# is not the goal... AT LEAST 100# is the hope. The goal is the most the wood will reasonably give... I guess I will proceed with what I have (1 1/2" wide, by maybe a bit over an inch thick) and see what I can get.

I appreciate the comments on length you made... I am wondering how long it should be at various weights at my draw length (30" to grip). I realize that I will have to get the outer limb pretty thin and light to avoid handshock and sluggish performance. I am thinking about tip overlays, so I can get really thin tips.

Steve made the suggestion that I get the handle to width, put a long string on and pull it with a scale until the handle starts to bend... If I understood him right, that would tell me what the max weight for that stave would be (for that length). Of course, I don't have a scale that goes over 100# (there must be a way to use two in tandem, somehow...).

One more thing... I saw in an article that Thimo posted that they are seeing better performance and comfort of shooting with longer bows (80" or more, I think I saw)... Jaro, any thoughts on that, too?

Thanks so much for your help, guys. I hope my computer hangs in there until I can read whatever you reply. I have a sercive call for the cable tomorrow... Hope it is that and not the computer itself...

Ken

Thanks again, Steve, Thimo, and Jaro! I really appreciate it.

Very good info, Steve. I guess I will start at 1 1/2" and work it down to 1 1/4" or 1 1/8", get the taper, and see how much I might need to shorten it. 76" is sounding doable, maybe...

Thimo, I hadn't seen those photographs, or all the numbers. I will have to rally concentrate on the numbers to get anything of them... "Dammit Jim, I'm a photographer, not a mathmetician!" Ha ha. Useful stuff, seriously, though.

I guess with all this, I don't need the sketches I was orignially looking for. I think they are by Jaro himself. They had drawings and handwritten notes....

Jaro, very usefull info. Better to have too long a stave, I guess... I just don't want to cut it short and wish it could be longer again... Ha ha. I am trying to figure out if I want to make it symmetrical, or offest in the handle as you mentioned in the quote to Matt (above).

Juri, good luck!

Ken